Encounter with the President

Day 4 - 19 March

We left Waterfalls, our host Solomon's home, early enough to avoid the traffic jams to head into the city. As it turned out, the only thing we should have been anxious to avoid were the horrendous potholes as there really wasn’t much traffic on the roads.

We met Daniel and Dadirai at our rendezvous, the Causeway post office in central Harare, where we found long queues of people half-heartedly marshalled by scores of policemen. We assumed that they were waiting to withdraw money as that’s what most people queue at banks all day for. From there, we decided to visit an internet café and were taken by our host to one on the same road as the hallowed State House. I was not too comfortable with the thought of reading ‘subversive’ emails and websites a stones throw away from the President's heavily armed palace. Luckily, if that's the right word, we were told the internet was down. So we visited another cyber café in the city centre. After paying US $1 each, we were sure that it would be a breeze accessing emails. It turned out be an illusion. After 30 minutes my email had not even opened! We had to leave without even having accessed our emails.

We headed to the Rainbow Towers (formerly the Sheraton Hotel) where the launch of the government Short Term Economic Recovery Plan (STERP) was to take place. We were too early as they were still setting up the room. So we decided to have a quick breakfast. Therein we witnessed the worst service in a reputable hotel.

We eventually went into the conference room at 10.00am as the event was to start at 11.00am. Every who is who in Zimbabwe’s political and business world were present. The security was not oppressive at all, the first sign that perhaps things were indeed changing. We witnessed camaraderie among the delegates from both ZANU PF and MDC that we never thought could ever happen. One could not imagine that these were ardent foes just a few months before, killing and destroying each other.

We then had to wait for President Robert Mugabe who was the keynote speaker. We waited for 2 hours before the old man turned up. Big wonder since State House is just a few minutes from the venue we were at. I thought it was a colossal waste of time that the best brains in the country had to sit and wait for 2 hours for a man who many will blame for destroying the same country that the government was trying to resuscitate through STERP.

We observed that the Finance Minister Tendai Biti consolidated his position, hogging the limelight and relegated Gideon Gono the Reserve Bank Governor to a cameo role. Gideon Gono is fingered by many as the man who destroyed the economy with his quasi fiscal activities. The economic plan they set out was decent and if implemented will result in recovery.

President Mugabe surprised us all. After a flowery introduction by Deputy Prime Minister Arthur Mutambara who called Mugabe Zimbabwe’s history among other accolades, the President took the podium and read what must have been a 10 minute speech! He pleaded with the west to lift sanctions and urged the western governments to help Zimbabwe rebuild. It was a surprise change of tone from a man who has demonised the West for nearly 10 years. We were greatly amazed by his manner and lack of aggression that has become characteristic of Mugabe speeches. Perhaps things are indeed changing.

After the event, we had a meeting with Anglican Bishop of Harare, Sebastian Bakare. I had last seen him in Sweden when he was receiving the Per Anger Award for Justice in November 2008. He was pleased to receive us and shared his thoughts about the changes in Zimbabwe. He was very sceptical about any real change and cautioned us not to clamour for bilateral aid to be quickly released unless real changes take place. He shared with us the continued persecution he and his parishioners in Harare were still experiencing.

The weekend before our visit, the church service he was leading was invaded by supporters of deposed Bishop Kunonga who had policemen supporting that service invasion. Bishop Bakare spoke of the importance of brining reconciliation in the church and asked us to consider ways in which we could help facilitate that process. It was important, he said, that the church be reconciled before it can spearhead national reconciliation. After our meeting we duly presented Bioshop Bakare with a LoveZim t-shirt. The Bishop asked why the t-Shirt was red, to which we explained that it was in line with the theme of love and that the campaign was launched on Valentine's Day. ‘Oh’ he said,’ I thought it was a communist movement as communist's wear red’.

Afterwards we drove to a French restaurant where we had a lovely meal. We had been in meetings all day and had not had opportunity to even have a snack until after 4pm. I still think Harare can deceive one into thinking they are not in Zimbabwe because of the standard of services and entertainment it still provides whilst the rest of the country decays.

We then went to meet with Lovemore Madhuku the chairmen of the National Constitutional assembly (NCA) with the organisation’s Director called Mudzengi. They told us about the need for a people driven constitution and not one that is driven by Parliament. He did say though, that they would support a government initiated process as they did in the previous attempt to write a new constitution unless the process subverts the will and aspirations of the people. We spoke about the possibility of partnering with NCA to educate people on constitutional issues and the importance of Diaspora engagement in the process.

After this meeting, we got the message that Takura Zhangazha, the Director of MISA (Media institute of Southern Africa) was ready to see us at the Quill club, a journalist's club that meets at a city centre hotel just across the road from the High Court. When we got there we found him along with the Deputy Minister of Information and several other people.

As we sat down and had drinks, a fellow I shall call ‘N’ came and sat with us. He knew Dadirai from the days that she was an NCA Coordinator. N started telling us about the problems and challenges facing the NCA. He then revealed to us some of the experiences he had following the appointment of the unity government. He had gone with some victims of the 2008 election violence to attack their former assailants in revenge for what had happened in 2008. He whispered how they had mutilated livestock, burnt homesteads and destroyed homes of suspected perpetrators of post March 2008 election violence. It was the first time that I had heard a first hand account of the revenge attacks the media had been reporting on. It reinforced the need for a justice and reconciliation process to start sooner than later.

We then talked with Takura and he explained to us how civic society was positioning itself to engage in the processes of reconstruction especially the new constitution. I then realised that civil society in Zimbabwe is split on how to approach the changes taking place. Our meeting ended at about 9pm and we then returned to our lodging for the night in downtown Harare.

Day 5 - 20 March

Dadirai and Fambai That morning, Daniel Molokela, the coordinator of the Zimbabwe Diaspora Forum, and I went to meet with representatives of the International Organisation for Migration. We discussed plans to engage Zimbabweans in the Diaspora in a consultative process to ensure that there is understanding of the changes taking place and preparation for reengagement programmes including repatriation. After our meeting we went to the Mass media house to meet with Fambai Ngirandi and Cephas Zinhumwe the advocacy officer and Director of NANGO (National Association for Non-governmental Organisations). They told us about the changes taking place and how civic society in Zimbabwe was preparing for it. They were organising to host a civic society conference on the 27th March where they would develop a frame for lobbying the new government.

Fambai, our host, then took us for lunch at a Portuguese restaurant called Kombani or something of that sort. When we got there it was full of clearly affluent people both black and white. We saw several parliamentarians there and even the retired army General Solomon Mujuru with whom Daniel had the temerity to engage in debate on the importance of the Diaspora. During our lunch Fambai spoke of his disappointment with the infighting and the ‘big man’ culture of opulence in the NGO sector.

We then had a meeting with Joel Nkunsane, the coordinator for the Catholic Commission for Justice and Peace (CCJP). He told us about the work they are doing to promote reconciliation. They had done initial work in the areas of Murewa, Mhondoro, Chitungwidza and Chivhu. They held workshops at the Rockwood Centre with both victims and perpetrators of the violence. They were surprised to find that some of the perpetrators of violence were church leaders.

Joel shared a disturbing story about how at one time they dealt with the case of a man who went fishing at a local dam only to fish out a body. He promptly called the police who fished out a body that was different from the one the fisherman had pulled out. The police proceeded to pull out several bodies until the dreaded CIO state agents ordered them to stop. It is chilling stories like that which illustrate the extent to which certain regions were devastated by post election violence.

We were due to travel to Bulawayo that afternnooon, but because our meetings went on longer than planned and it had started to rain, we stayed on for the night in Harare. That evening Miles and Solomon invited us to go out to the book café where there is normally a local jazz band playing. Daniel and I got there just as there was a powercut. That cut our night out short.

Qobo Mayisa

Wind of Change

Day 6 - 21 March

We were awoken by the sound of chanting and stomping feet. For a moment, I thought the war veterans and the green bomber youth militia had revived and were hunting for nosy foreign based traitors (as Mugabe would call anyone living in the UK). I jumped out of my bed and peeked out of the window, and to my relief, saw that it was just police recruits doing their early morning jog.

We left Harare at abot 7am and hitchhiked to Bulawayo catching a lift that turned out to be an illegal long distance taxi - what the locals call ‘pirates’. The police never bothered him even though we passed no less than 5 roadblocks along the way. When we arrived in Bulawayo, we met with Useni Sibanda, the Director of Zimbabwe Christian Alliance. We discussed the possibilities opening up for the church in the new environment. We agreed to do jointed work with the church in the diaspora and the local Zimbabwe Chrsitian Alliance. Useni then invited me to address the board of Zimbabwe Christian Alliance the next Monday.

Day 7 - 22 March

I had the priviledge of giving a talk at a township based church that meets in a tent in the high density suburb of Nkulumane. It was heartwarming to see hundreds of people of all ages turn up and pack the tent amidst the poverty, burst sewers, potholes dust and decay in the townships. I had been invited by Bishop Philip Chisale a friend of mine from back in the days when I lived in Bulawayo nearly 10 years ago.

After the service, we drove into the rural area of Bubi near Nkayi in North Western Zimbabwe. My father lives in a resettlement there. Until then I thought I had seen the worst road on earth. Well, the potholes of Harare that had grass growing in them and the craters of the Bulawayo township were as smooth as butter compared to the gulleys masquerading as roads that we travelled on that afternoon. I wonder how such communities still manage to travel in those red dust canyons! We gave lifts to several villagers along the way and that gave us opportunity to interview different people on what their experience and hopes are. We found that most people were appreciative of the changes though small that were taking place. Good rains also meant that there would be fairly good harvests. The mood in those remote villages was positive and upbeat.

Day 8 - 23 March

On Monday morning we had arranged with Zimbabwe Christian Alliance that they would transport us to Gweru then onwards to Harare. We were driven to Gweru by Mrs Mzizi a ZCA staff member. Along the way we met probably 2 cars for a distance of 100 miles. However. we were stopped and fined by police with hidden cameras for over speeding. Nevertheless, we arrived in Gweru and found 40 people waiting for us. They consisted of church leaders, civic leaders and heads of Non-governmental oragnisations.

We explained the work we are doing with churches in Britain and how we seek to link at local level to support initiatives at a grassroots level. We got a favourable response as most organisations saught to partner with us and promote the work we do each in their own way. We had lunch with our delegates . We were delayed in leaving Gweru because the local bank was not immediately able to give us the American dollars required to pay for the venue and hospitality.

We eventually set off for Harare and arrived after 8pm. I was dropped off at the Greenhouse, a bed and breakfast facility run by Phineahs Dube, one of the most influential Christian thinkers and leaders of Zimbabwe. I met with several Board members of the Zimbabwe Christian Alliance. Mrs Dube told us a sad story of a woman she was counselling who was raped during the election violence but has never told her husband or any of her family members for fear that her marriage would end. Once again, we were shown the deep emotional and psychological scars that victims of the violence carry. They still suffer long after the actual act itself. In our discussion with Pastors Netha, Mashata and Sibanda that evening, we concluded that every sector in Zimbabwe was in need of healing including the agricultural sector. Pastor Netha suggested that rather than rely on commercial agriculture perhaps this was the time for small scale farmers to be empowered with techniques that will boost productivity. That, he said, would be a longer term solution than trying to reverse the farm invasions.

Day 9 - 24 March

We drove from our night's accommodation to the offices of Zimbabwe Christian Alliance for the Board meeting that I was to address. The offices are in a grand and spacious mansion with marble floors and stone finishing. I did feel slightly awed and a bit uneasy at the opulence of the place. I met with the board of ZCA and was asked to give devotions and to then explain the work I am doing with CZCLUK and LoveZim coalition. I felt privileged to address that meeting that consisted of the courageous men who had refused to be silenced but maintained the Church presence in national affairs by being a prophetic voice. Some, like Rev Wakatama, Motsi and Magaya had been arrested and detained for their Christian witness. Pastor Magaya who is blind, inspired me greatly with his courage. After my address the board members asked that a memorandum of understanding be drawn between our organisations to enable joint working and partnership.

Having finished my address, I left to return to Bulawayo. Once again I had to hitch hike as Christian Alliance staff were unable to return with me to Bulawayo as originally agreed. I arrived in Bulawayo at 6pm and promptly used the evening to visit relatives as I had not been able to meet them due to my busy schedule. I spent the night at my mothers home in the township of Nketa. This time, there was no power cut.

Day 10 - 25 March

On my last morning in Zimbabwe I got up early with the schoolchildren (my brother's kids) and walked with them to their school. School starts at 7.30am in Zimbabwe even for children in infant school. As I walked to another part of the township I met a young girl pushing a wheelbarrow with a person curled up inside. Clearly, a sick mother or sister so thin and frail that they could be pushed in a wheelbarrow by a young girl. As I stood there, shocked, a sleek Doctors without Borders car passed by without even stopping. I thought it was an unbelievable paradox that here is a person on the verge of death being transported by a child and the people who could possibly save her life just drive by. I suppose that is one of the contradictions in Zimbabwe.

After packing my bags and bidding farewell to my mother and other relatives who had gathered to see me off, I was driven to the airport by a Habakkuk Trust staff member. On our way, we passed a roadblock and whilst we were at that roadblock a distressed white woman stopped there and cried out to the police to come with her to her shop that had just been raided by armed robbers. Eventually, one policeman agreed to go with her, unarmed. It seemed to me that the police were more intent on soliciting bribes from motorists than stopping an armed robbery. As I stood at Bulawayo’s airport terminal, a soft breeze was bloing in the warm sun. Perhaps an assurance that a gentle wind of change was blowing in Zimbabwe.

Qobo Mayisa

Harare Highs

18 March

That morning we were jarred into action at 6am when Dadirai called us to say she was on her way from Gweru to pick us up and take us to Harare. I always think that if all the leaders in Zimbabwe were as dedicated and diligent as her, perhaps things might be slightly different. She was a bit unhappy though as she was fighting a terrible cold and barely had a voice. We agreed that Miles would take over the driving at some point. I wasn’t too sure about driving those huge 4x4s on those hugely potholed roads.

We said goodbye to our kind host Jerry and made our way to Gweru passing through a series of roadblocks where we were stopped and then flagged on without being asked any questions. After a while, I realised that we were all wearing dark shades, which is the chosen attire of CIO (the dreaded Central Intelligence Organisation), so the poor police must have been anxious to spend as little time with us as possible.

We passed through Dadirai's home in the posh surburbs of Gweru and had a short break before proceeding to Harare. I was reminded of the difference between the houses in Zimbabwe and great Britain.

Daidairai's house was complete with a huge landscaped garden and swimming pool. Once in the ourtskirts Miles took over the driving.

We drove to Harare on the quiet Mvuma road, now called Tsvangirai Road, by the locals because that is where the wife of Prime Minister Tsvangirai died in a car crash just weeks after her husband took up the post of Prime Minister. The road itself was not half as bad as we had imagined. In fact, in some places it was smooth until one got to the outskirts of Harare where it changed into multiple craters. We arrived in Harare that afternoon at about 2pm and tried to locate Solomon, our Harare host, to enable us to get to his home and refresh. We could not locate him.

Dadirai suggested we go to a house in Hatfield to which she had keys. We got to the house and found it empty, quickly changed and left our bags there. We headed to the city centre for our meeting with Doctor Shana, head of the Evangelical Fellowship of Zimbabwe and Chairman of the Heads of Christian Denominations.

We arrived at the Meikles Hotel and found Dr Shana in a meeting. Mrs Shana was sitting a few tables away, so we went to speak to her. She revealed that they were unable to visit us in the United Kingdom because they were repeatedly denied Visas by the British Embassy. The last time Dr Shana, who leads churches in the United Kingdom, had visited was in 2004 when I had the honour of taking him to Birmingham and organising a big welcome Braii (Barbacue) for him and his team.

Dr Shana spoke about the challenges that faced the church and the nation. He told us that he had just that day been appointed an Education Commissioner by the Minister of Education to develop a strategy for reviving the educational sector in Zimbabwe. He expressed an unusal understanding of the role of the Diaspora and how Zimbabwe needs to engage with the Diaspora. We found the time we spent with him extremely enlightening about what the church should possibly do to help the reconstruction agenda.

After our meeting with Dr Shana we were joined by Solomon, our host, complete with dreadlocks. At one time the dreadlocks became a hairstyle of choice among the geographically and socially mobile young Zimbabweans. No sooner had we concluded our meeting with Dr Shana that Daniel Molokela called us to say that Minister of State in the Prime Ministers Office, Hon Gordon Moyo, was happy to see us at 7pm.

Daniel was our ‘fixer’ in Harare even though he is the Coordinator for the Global Zimbabwe Forum and is based in South Africa. He and Dadirai had agreed to help arrange meetings for us with political and civic leaders using the strong connections they had. We found our way to the Monomotapa Crown Plaza where the ministers reside and waited for Daniel. After buying a few drinks I took in our environment: posh hotel crawling with men in dark suits and glasses. Anytime you see a man in a dark suit wearing glasses on an evening in Zimbabwe, they are most likely state secret service agents. Luckily for us, Gordon did not take too long to appear and take us to his room.

On the way we met Giles Mutsekwa, the minister of Home affairs. Gordon was very happy to see us and he knew most of the team except Miles and Solomon. I had worked with Gordon Moyo in several civic organisations in Zimbabwe along with Dadirai and Daniel. We were like veterans of the civil society struggle and the camaraderie was evident. Gordon told us about the challenges they faced in the new inclusive government. He made it clear that for the arrangement to succeed the government needed support. Whilst with him we were joined by the acting Prime Minister Hon Thoko Khuphe even though she did not stay long with us. After about 2 hrs we concluded our meeting. Gordon invited us to the launch of the Short term Economic Recovery Programme (STERP) the next day in Harare. He also alerted us to a few other meetings that he thought we would benefit from attending.

After our meeting we decided to go and have something to eat. Someone proposed a Chinese restaurant in Avondale. We drove there and I was surprised that such places were still open in the harsh economic environment. The food wasn’t bad either and when we got there we had been initially told that the place was full.

After our dinner we went to collect Solomon’s car then drove to his place in Hatfield. Solomon's car was a rusty Datsun 120y. I was shocked that such cars still exist as it must be about 30 years old but still driving very well. Solomon apologised that the car might smell a bit fishy because it had been used to transport fish. Well, it was not only fishy but also smoky, filling up with exhaust fumes as we drove. I admire the resilience of Zimbabwean cars and perhaps their mechanics. In England, Solomon’s car would have been scrapped two decades ago! We spent the night at Solomons flat, clearly a bachelor's pad, and enjoyed the company of two of his friends who we probably tormented by keeping up half the night talking about everything from rain to religion.

Qobo Mayisa, Council of Christian Leaders UK